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Showing posts with the label Uttarakhand

Chronicle of Harsil Valley - Part 3 - Gartang Gali and What Lies Beneath

 The day when CP and his wife went to hike to Llama top, I had decided to visit Gartang Gali. A trek used in earlier times to trade between India and Tibet. The highlight of this trek was the end, where golden wooden stairs (around 50) end the Indian side and from where the Tibetan side begins. I started for Gartang Gali at around 11 AM, and CP had already left by then. Ishan's mother said that CP and his wife ate separately in the morning. She was happy to see that, although I did not understand why. Before leaving, I asked Ishan whether I would be able to reach Gartang Gali or not. This was because there are no petrol pumps in Harshil. The last petrol pump one will see is in Uttarkashi, around 60-80 km away. My car showed that it can run 270 km, but these readings are never accurate. I had to calculate the distances beforehand. Additionally, once you are outside Harshil, there are no networks. I had to reach Gartang Gali from Harshil Valley the old-school way, remembering the rou...

Chronicle of Harsil Valley - Part 2 - A Homestay, A Rating, and A Cold Night

 When I arrived at Ishan's house, he already had a booking for 2 days from someone called "CP" starting from the next day. When I asked him to get me a heater, he gave me a hot air fan, which is not that great in temperatures dipping below negative. I saw him using a much bigger heater in his room, and I was confused as to why he did not provide me with that. Later that night, after dinner, we were sitting on the porch looking down at the Harsil valley and Mukhwa village, on which lights were shimmering in perfect sync. "Somebody is putting up a tent there, look!" said Ishan, pointing towards a gap between two mountains. I looked at the place he pointed and could only see a single light there, like a bulb. "How do you know that?" I asked him. "There's nothing there. Somebody has put up the tent, that's why a light is there. I wonder how they will spend the night. It would be so exciting." I saw his eyes shining while he spoke and cont...

Chronicle of Harsil Valley - Part 1 - Apple Orchards, Forest Trails, and a Very Large Dog

In November, I decided to visit Harsil Valley. A picturesque valley with snow-peaked mountains and the last settled village on the way to the Gangotri Dham. It had long been my wish to visit Harsil, and at a time when the water is blue and the wind is cold. Fortunately, November weather matches my conditions perfectly. I booked a homestay with Ishan, whose first line read, "Atop a small 1.5 km hike is our home with beautiful Apple orchards." When I enquired with him before booking, he was quick to tell me that the homestay is not in the valley, but we have to hike a bit to get there. "Although the view from my home is great," he said after mentioning the hike. Hiking wasn't a problem, and I could easily sacrifice my legs for the views in Harsil Valley.  My trip to the Harsil valley started with multiple U-turns, thanks to Ishan, who was confused and did not know the signs on the way. "I am at the signboard that says, Welcome to Bagori village", I said,...
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